Here is some of the stitching you will find throughout my blog. Figure 1 is the top stitch (except for line four, I made an oopsy.) Figure 2 is the bottom stitches.
Start off every project with three backstitches to anchor your threads in place. This is similar to a top stitch but you would go backward away from you instead of towards you like regular sewing. Most machines have a button that will automatically do a backstitch for you. If your machine does not have a backstitch button roll the knob on the right side of your machine away from you until you see the needle move up and down three times. Not every stitch needs a backstitch.
These stitches shown in line one prevent your raw edges from unraveling. Overcasting may require a special presser foot depending on the overcasting style you want. Backstitching is not required for overcast stitches.
It’s a basic stitch that I like to use to mark my fabric grain and my top stitches. Most projects will only require an overcasting stitch and a straight stitch. Lengthening the stitches will give you a different look. Line 2 shows a straight stitch with 5mm. Line 3 shows a 1.4mm length.
The difference between the straight stitch and the triple stretch stitch is how many layers of the thread is in each section length. The stitches in line 1 and 2 have one thread in each length; line 4 and 5 have three. You would use a triple stretch stitch for attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching. I like using this instead of the straight stitch for seams. It gives my projects more strength.
Line 6 has a width of 1mm, length of 2.5mm, and line 7 has a width and length of 3mm. Notice the spacing from point to point in each line. Use the stretch stitch for stretch fabrics.
Go find a pair of jeans. Look at the top corners of the back pocket. Most of them will have a bar tack stitch same as line eight. Using a bar tack stitch prevents tears from frequent use.
Stitching on line nine and ten are only for decorative purpose. They are mostly seen on the edges of pillows and blankets. Notice the difference in spacing. This effect can be achieved by changing the width and length of your stitches.
Zig-zag stitches work very well with stretch fabrics to lock the elasticity together.
These stitches are meant for temporary use and are to be taken out when the project is done (Kelly, 2015). I like to switch out the bobbin color to red or any bright and contrasting color to your fabric. Seeing the bottom stitch different from the top stitch will remind us to take it out. Look at line 11 in figure 2.
Kelly, J. (2015, July 2). Machine Basting 101. Retrieved from Sew4Home.com: http://www.sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/machine-basting-101